The Solo Traveller
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Festivals and Events
Fireworks celebrating Diwali in Jodhpur, a city in the Thar Desert of the northwest Indian state of Rajasthan. Photography: Anirudh.
Diwali lights the way – a solo traveller’s guide to the Festival of Lights
By Josh Chandler
Every year, as the new moon rises in late October or early November, homes across India, and hearts across generations, begin to glow. Lanterns flicker in doorways, firecrackers crackle through the dusk, sweet cardamom-laced aromas drift from kitchens, and a collective sense of hope and renewal takes hold. This is one of my favourite times of the year in India (and among the friends of mine who celebrate it anywhere in the world) – Diwali, the Festival of Lights – a celebration of new beginnings, the triumph of light over darkness, and the enduring power of good. Diwali is celebrated over five days, with the main Diwali ritual – Lakshmi Puja – taking place on the evening of Monday 20 October.
Diwali, or Deepavali (from the Sanskrit deepa, meaning ‘lamp’ or ‘light’, and avali, meaning ‘row’ or ‘series’), is one of India’s most important and widely celebrated festivals. Its roots run deep through the diverse religious and cultural traditions of the subcontinent. In Hinduism, the festival’s meaning shifts slightly depending on region, but its themes remain constant – the victory of good over evil, light over darkness, and knowledge over ignorance.
For me, Diwali is not simply a spectacle to witness and remember forever, it has always been a precious invitation to participate. To walk through lamp-lit streets shoulder to shoulder with friends and complete strangers, to light a diya (oil lamp) and place it in the window of a guesthouse room, and to feel completely welcome and at home in the world.
In northern India, Diwali celebrates the return of Lord Rama, the prince of Ayodhya, who was exiled for 14 years and defeated the demon king Ravana to rescue his wife, Sita. Upon his return, the people of Ayodhya lit thousands of diyas to guide him home and mark the end of his long exile.
In southern India, it is Lord Krishna’s triumph over the demon Narakasura that is commemorated, symbolising the release of the world from fear and tyranny. In western India, particularly in Gujarat and Maharashtra, Diwali marks the end of the agricultural season and the beginning of the new financial year. Worship of Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity, is central to the celebrations, and homes are cleaned and decorated to welcome her blessings.
Diwali’s significance, however, is not limited to Hindus. For Jains, it marks the moment in 527 BCE when Lord Mahavira, the last great teacher of their faith, attained moksha (liberation from the cycle of rebirth), and it is said the heavens lit up in celebration. For Sikhs, the festival aligns with Bandi Chhor Divas, which honours the release of Guru Hargobind Sahib from Mughal imprisonment, along with 52 Hindu princes whose freedom he secured. The return of the Guru to Amritsar was marked by candlelight, a tradition that continues at the Golden Temple today.
Diwali is not a single story, but a collection of rare, ancient luminous threads woven through mythology, history, and our shared human longing for joy, clarity, and peace.
The best places in India to experience Diwali
While the entire country celebrates Diwali with heart and fire, some destinations offer especially rich and welcoming experiences for those travelling solo.
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Pujaris (Hindu temple priests), performing an aarti ceremony on the banks of the sacred banks of the Ganges. Photography: Carlos M Subirats.
Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
During Diwali, this sacred city on the banks of the Ganges transforms into something almost dreamlike. Temples glow with light, the river is filled with floating lamps, and nightly aartis (fire ceremonies) pulse with music and devotion. A few days after Diwali comes Dev Deepawali, when every ghat (a series of steps leading down to a body of water) is lit with thousands of lamps, which is a truly breathtaking sight. Here, you will find comfort in the rhythm of ritual and in the openness of fellow pilgrims.
Made from pink and red sandstone, Hawa Mahal – ‘Palace of Winds’ – features a spectacular five-storey façade with numerous windows and latticework, allowing air circulation and providing views for the royal women. Photography: Jayanth Muppaneni.
Jaipur, Rajasthan
During Diwali, Jaipur – or the ‘Pink City’ (due to the dominant colour scheme of its buildings in the old city) – becomes the City of Light. Markets overflow with colourful textiles, flower garlands, sweets, and rangoli (intricate patterns made from coloured powders). The main bazaar streets are lit with themed displays, and there is even a competition among shopkeepers for the best lighting (and, since 2024, extra points were awarded for sanitation and waste management). Friendly, walkable, and full of charm, Jaipur is ideal for celebrating Diwali with a sense of local pride.
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The Golden Temple (Swarn Mandir), Amritsar, Punjab, India. Photography: Salil.
Amritsar, Punjab
In Amritsar, Diwali and Bandi Chhor Divas blend into one magnificent event. The Golden Temple glows with thousands of candles, its gold-domed reflection shimmering in the water that surrounds it. Fireworks light up the sky, and the atmosphere is one of deep community and joy. For solo travellers, the langar (community kitchen) offers not just a free meal but a reminder that no one is ever truly alone.
The Goddess Kali at a decorated puja pandal in Kolkata, West Bengal, India. Photography: Sudip Biswas.
Kolkata, West Bengal
In Kolkata, Diwali coincides with Kali Puja, honouring the fierce and compassionate goddess Kali, and it is Kali's intense presence that fills the city. Her idols, crafted by hand and celebrated in homes and pandals (temporary shrines), are surrounded by candles, offerings, and flowers. The vibe is less commercial and more devotional, with a slightly different energy that solo travellers may find equally haunting and grounding.
Lanterns on display for Diwali in Mumbai, India. Photography: Sonika Agarwal.
Mumbai, Maharashtra
India’s bustling cultural capital doesn’t do anything by halves. Diwali in Mumbai is a five-senses feast, from the elaborate street decorations of Dadar and Girgaon to the glittering displays in upscale neighbourhoods like Malabar Hill. Diwali melas (fairs), firework displays along Marine Drive, and open-air dance parties make this a thrilling option for solo travellers with energy to spare.
Solo travel tips during Diwali
A beautiful combination of diyas and candles for Diwali. Photography: Udayaditya Barua.
Diwali is a festival that radiates from within. It’s a reminder – softly or loudly, depending on where you are – that the promise of light belongs to everyone. For the solo traveller, it offers a powerful gift – a sense of belonging through beauty, ritual, and human warmth. To walk through India during Diwali is to walk through a story told in light, and if you let it, it may illuminate something in you, too. If you have anyone in your friendship circle who quietly celebrates Diwali, make sure you investigate the opportunity to participate. Wherever you are in the world, this is a memorable celebration of great love and joy.
Plan your accommodation early: Diwali is a peak travel time in India. Book stays well in advance, ideally in guesthouses or homestays where hosts can share traditions or offer local insight.
Pack something modest and festive: A kurta or sari isn’t required, but it’s appreciated to wear neat, colourful clothing, especially if you are invited to join a celebration.
Say ‘Yes!’ to connection: If you're invited to a family’s Diwali puja (prayer ceremony) or dinner, accept with gratitude. These moments are rarely planned, but they are unforgettable.
Learn the basics of diya lighting and Lakshmi Puja: Even small acts of participation show respect and spark connection.
Be mindful with fireworks: In some areas, they can be intense and unregulated. Watch from a distance unless you’re with locals who can guide you safely.
Josh Chandler is a freelance writer based in the United Kingdom.