Departures

Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles, California, commands a view of the Los Angeles Basin including Downtown Los Angeles to the southeast, Hollywood to the south, and the Pacific Ocean to the southwest. Photography: Venti Views.
The power of art and connectivity
Briefly …
Memories are the true souvenirs of travel. Jennifer Nutting of Handlebar Bike Tours in Los Angeles shares how a chance encounter at an Angel Wings mural revealed the profound power of art, connection, and friendship.
Travel leaves us with more than stamps in our passports or a thousand photos on our phones. It creates memories that become touchstones in our lives – moments we return to when we need joy, courage, or simply a reminder of who we were in a certain place and time. While some of these memories fade over time, others become richer and often life-defining – the stories we share with others, and the quiet treasures we carry for ourselves.
Jennifer Nutting owns and operates Handlebar Bike Tours in Downtown Los Angeles. “All our tours are round trip from our home base at Grand Central Market, LA’s iconic food hall,” Jennifer tells The Solo Traveller. “Our 3-hour guided bicycle tours of Downtown LA (DTLA) are designed for casual riders to experience the city – as if they have a friend in LA showing them the sites. We have something for everyone, a ‘Top 10 of DTLA’ (as it's known locally), an off the beaten path Arts District tour, and a ‘Tacos and Brews Cruise’ for the foodies.”

Grand Central Market, Downtown, Los Angeles, California. Photography: Eduardo Cabanas.
As unforgettable experiences go, Jennifer’s memory of a women visiting all the way from Italy is proof that the Universe can indeed guide us on our travels – and often with extraordinary results. “On my Los Angeles Arts District bike tour, a woman from Italy had signed up on her own. Early in the tour we stopped at Colette Miller’s original Angel Wings mural, the first she ever painted, which led to the Global Angel Wings project. Colette was there touching up her original, and my Italian guest was thrilled to meet her and take a few photos of the artist in action.”
“She told Colette and the group about a young family friend who had recently passed, and how the family had chosen a photo of their daughter happily posing in front of a pair of Colette’s wings for the ceremony. It was very emotional for her to meet the artist who was now part of the memory of her young friend and Colette was touched by the story, and gracious to our guests. It was a meaningful moment on the power of art and the connectivity of humanity, which is the unspoken undercurrent of travel.”


(Left): Colette Miller’s original Angel Wings mural, which led to the Global Angel Wings project. Photography: Jennifer Nutting; and Los Angeles City Hall. Photography: Sidney Gonzales.
“As a solo traveller myself, I relish this kind of travel, but it can be a lot of work being the only one responsible for navigating, translating, and researching. It can be relaxing to sign up for a tour and let go of the reins for a few hours to enjoy the sights, sounds and flavours of a destination unencumbered by the mental load of solo travel. Plus, a well-run tour with a local will definitely show you something unique not in any guidebook and provide local insider knowledge.”
“When I do get a friend to travel with me, I'm very clear up front about boundaries, expectations, what amount of dollars I'm comfortable spending on accommodations and food, and that I will be doing some things alone. This preserves friendships and still gives me the freedom to explore on my own. Some of my most memorable trips have been solo travel, with friend meet ups along the way.”
With Los Angeles’ mild climate, Jennifer operates her Handlebar Bike Tours year-round, “… but the Fall (Autumn) is my favourite time to tour Downtown Los Angeles. The end of October, our Downtown Los Angeles Tour features Olvera Street, and for a few days around the first of November each year, guests can see the elaborate Dia De Los Muertos (The Day of the Dead) altars set up by family in La Plaza.”

Jennifer Nutting, who owns and operates Handlebar Bike Tours in Downtown Los Angeles. Photography: Marko Paavolainen.
For solo travellers concerned that Jennifer requires a minimum number of guests on her tours, or that there is an additional charge for solo travellers, fear not! “There are no extra charges for solo travellers joining my tours, and we do not cancel if the tour isn't full. We've toured groups of one many times. People travel solo because they want the freedom to explore on their own timeframe, based on their interests, and the ability to change up plans without consultation – the ultimate freedom.”

The Walt Disney Concert Hall at 111 South Grand Avenue in downtown Los Angeles, was designed by Frank Gehry, and opened on 23 October 2003. Photography: Sidney Gonzales.
Jennifer’s top 3 tips for solo travelling success
1. Bring a headlamp and a bungee cord. A headlamp is great to hang around the neck as a reading light that won’t disturb others, a useful tool for searching a deep bag, or a safety light on a night walk or bike ride. A bungee cord makes a good clothesline, or to hang muddy shoes and/or wet bathing suits outside luggage. I've even used mine to strap a few beers to an air conditioner as an impromptu cooler in Thailand.
2. Don't book a hotel/hostel near the airport and/or a train station. While it sounds convenient and is often cheaper, these accommodations are only good for late night arrivals or early morning departures. You won't see much of the true nature of a destination without travelling further afield from major transport hubs.
3. If you use a guidebook, re-bound it at a local office supply store with a plain cover. I always do this, because it prevents you being labelled a tourist, and possibly a target for crime.
You can find out more about Handlebar Bike Tours here and on Instagram here. You can also find out more about the Global Angel Wings project here.
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