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Perspectives

Big Sur is a rugged and mountainous section of the central coast of California, United Sta

Big Sur is a rugged and mountainous section of the central coast of California, United States of America, where the Santa Lucia Mountains rise abruptly and dramatically from the Pacific Ocean. Photography: Brian Swanson @ Adobe Stock.

The courage to journey … on the wrong side of the road

By Jane D Thornton

Excitement, jet lag, fatigue … anticipation, terror. And that was just the first 20 minutes after dragging my overpacked bag off the carousel. I sat in the driver’s seat of my rental car staring at a roadmap of the Big Sur coastline, paralysed. Not only was I trying to mentally adjust my ‘lefts’ and ‘rights’ from the wrong side of the car, but how the hell was I going to navigate myself southward (on the wrong side of the road) and in the failing light? This was the moment I truly discovered the power of self-talk … after-all, my destination was not only a deeply spiritual place that had called me from another hemisphere but was full of promised empowering adventures. Surely I had the mental gas to get there!

One big breath, and out of the airport car park. I viscerally remember that first corner through the traffic lights as I hugged the centre line, a moment where left and right would never be the same. I made it onto the open coast road, didn’t hit a thing, and congratulated myself.

Over the three-hour drive along the most stunning coastline, I finally arrived as the daylight diminished to a steely blue full moon darkness. I pulled into the car park to face my next dilemma. No accomodation, warnings that sleeping in cars was ‘not allowed’, the evenings activities were well underway, and I had no idea where to go.

This is probably not the moment one might expect magic to preside over my experience given I was quite delirious from jet lag – however, it was exactly when the magic began … I just didn’t realise it at the time. I wandered along a half-lit path seeking out any human being who I might implore for answers. Seated like a sentry was a friendly, gruff looking fellow who knew less than me but pointed in the direction of music playing past the trees.

A large high ceiling building came into view – it was full of people moving freeform to music. As I tentatively put my bag down, I was whisked into the fold, and found myself being guided to think of a past loved one to dance to … profound, even spiritual I thought as I joined the circle, but it doesn’t look like the Heart of Leadership course I came here for.

One succinct inquiry later (at the end of the Friday night induction) confirmed that the Yurt 100 yards onward had been my destination. Not to be thwarted, I headed back towards the car when I came across a well-lit open cabin, where a few stragglers mingled around a temporary kitchen set up with bread and jam, kettle, tea … biscuits. The salivated look on my face must’ve been obvious as my gruff friend invited me to snack. He told me about the mineral baths up on the hill if I should wish to refresh myself and gave me a solid heads-up on how to navigate the ‘sleeping in car’ issue. To this day I have ‘stayed mum’ – I’ll take his secret to the grave.

I made my way up a lit path to the mineral baths, steamy and stunning. No bathing gear allowed, I slipped naked into the water, tummy filled with toast and jam. As I sidled myself into a position I could’ve slept in, the moment, the power of now, the magic, swept over me as the warm water enveloped my body. And above, the most glorious full moon, smiling and welcoming me … as if she was saying “You’ve arrived, enjoy, embrace and be still”.

Celebrating my ‘graduation’ from the Heart Of Leadership course in the yurt at Esalen Inst

Celebrating my ‘graduation’ from the Heart Of Leadership course in the Yurt at Esalen Institute in July 2001.

The course was wonderful, led by three extraordinary women. I was gifted in ways that overwhelmed me due to the generosity of strangers. I connected to the beauty and depth of Esalen’s native land and the fellow gypsies seeking their truths.

And so, my solo journey began taking me from north to south, then west to east, so many magical moments, chance encounters, Universal alignments, spiritual epiphanies, and visceral memories that live in my heart. I still mix up my left from my right, but I’m grateful that I had the courage to journey on the wrong side of road.

Founded in 1962, Esalen is not-for-profit centre for exploring and realising human potential through experience, education, and research.

Jane D Thornton is a writer and The Solo Traveller’s Creative Consultant Lead, based in Queensland, Australia.

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